Traveling internationally during Covid can be difficult, even more so when voyaging on a sailboat.
Will we get to the Bahamas this year?
How would we fulfill the testing and paperwork in the same time frame as a decent weather window to sail across the gulf stream?!
Bahamas Travel Requirements And A Weather Window
Knowing the Covid entry requirements for the Bahamas included a short time frame, we held our dream loosely to sail to the Bahamas this season. Feeling a time restraint can lead to a bad decision on whether to go on a passage or wait for better conditions. We agreed that we would only proceed with a crossing if the weather forecast indicated a safe journey across.
If all the steps worked out, we would get to enjoy a couple of months in the Bahamas. And if the pieces of our puzzle didn’t come together in a timely manner, we would know we tried.
Research Travel Requirements
I naturally love to research things. So, I eagerly dove right in to learn what I could about checking into the Bahamas and especially during Covid. The last time we sailed to the Bahamas was about 20 years ago with our 6 kids and things have changed!
The Boat Galley’s Bahamas course was one place I gleaned valuable information. I also perused a couple of Facebook Bahamas groups for tips and experiences of others that have traveled to the Bahamas recently by sailboat. And of course, it was important to keep checking the Bahamas website to stay current on the requirements.
For a while, the process seemed foggy in my mind. It was like a moving target to comprehend what to do, when, and how. I’ve found it’s best to try and take things in little steps and to take notes. Soon the fog lifted and I felt ready to tackle the process whenever the next weather window appeared.
Weather Window
We didn’t have to wait long. It looked like there was a potential weather window approaching in a few days.
The first step was to arrange our Covid tests. Just figuring that out took some time and more research. Did we want to go with a paid test or free, should we go somewhere or do a video proctored test from our boat? Fortunately, I found appointments for free tests at a nearby Walgreens within walking distance to the city marina.
On the day of our Covid test, we took the long dinghy ride from our outside anchorage to the city marina dinghy docks, paid for a day pass, and walked about a mile to Walgreens. For the covid test, you need to use the drive-thru window. I had previously called to see if it was OK for us to walk through the drive-thru or if we needed to take a taxi. Walking was fine. So, we walked thru to get our tests done. It seemed like a long wait at the window because of the hot direct sun heating up the pavement. Eventually, a pharmacist came to the window. She confirmed our appt and prepared our tests. The drive-thru drawer opened with our tests, she explained the procedure, watched while we did it, we placed the vials back into the drawer, she closed the drawer.
Our test results will be sent to us via email within 24 hours. We asked if it was a rapid test and if we might get the results sooner than 24 hours? We hadn’t planned on waiting 24 hours for the results, we thought it was an hour or two! They confirmed it was the rapid test and the results may be sent sooner, but it could take up to 24 hours.
The wait is on! We need to wait for the results while still in cell range so we can upload them to get the health visa and the click-to-clear process completed. We also wanted to be able to get to shore and print all the documents as I had read it makes the check-in process in the Bahamas go smoother.
It felt like a race against time, how will this all work out?!
One tip I had gleaned from other cruiser’s experiences was to use a computer for click-to-clear, not an iPad or phone. With that in mind, we headed to the Marathon library and used their computers to start filling out the online forms. We were optimistic our Covid results would arrive while we were at the library so they could be uploaded and submitted. The library closed before we got our test results so back to Terrapin we went. More waiting. Would we be crossing the gulf stream the next day or need to wait for the next weather window and start the process all over again?
My results came back before we went to sleep that night, but not Tony’s. Ugh! It was a little hard to sleep with the uncertainty of when his results would come back. We also didn’t know how long it would take to get the health visa approved once his results were submitted. We might make our weather window and we might not!
The next morning was a flurry of preparations. Tony’s covid results came back, we submitted the health visa applications and then waited. We couldn’t put the dinghy up on deck quite yet because we wanted to print out our documents before we left. I don’t like feeling tied to my phone, but in this case, I kept it close at hand.
Once both health visas were approved, we dinghied to shore to print all the documents only to realize the library was closed. We could walk to the UPS store to print our documents, but that would delay our departure. Maybe we can pay to print them at the city marina office? Yes! That worked!
Crossing the Gulf Stream
It’s time to go! Dinghy up and deck. We weighed anchor in Marathon on Sun Feb 27th, 2022 around 2:00 pm. There was a brisk wind on our nose for the start of our passage with waves close together. After a couple of hours of very slow progress into the headwind, we opted to change our route. We tacked out towards the gulf stream and slightly back towards Marathon. We figured once we got in the Gulf Stream we would make up for the longer distance and backward progress. It worked out well. The swell became farther apart and more comfortable as we got outside of Hawks channel and the reefs. It still took a little time to get into the Gulf Stream, but we were able to turn and head in the right direction. Once in the Gulf Stream, we picked up a good speed and as the evening came, the wind settled down which was nice for the nighttime hours.
Our night sail was partially cloudy, but we could always see some stars. Some of the time we motor sailed and some of the time just motored since the wind was either close to the nose or on the nose. We took 2 1/2 hour watches which worked well for one of us to get a full 2 hrs sleep and about 1/2 hour buffer to wake up, make a snack, go to the bathroom, and get our gear on for our watch.
At the beginning of the night, we went a long time without seeing other ships. Later, we had a few hours where we had a whole bunch of ships to deal with. Since we’re still learning how to use our radar and AIS, we woke the other person up whenever the AIS alarm indicated we might be on a collision course with another vessel to decide together how to alter course.
One time it was like a dance between us and a big cruiser. We adjusted our course and they did the same. We’re still on a collision course. We adjusted course again, they did also. Still on a collision course. Time to call them and ask their intention and did they see us? They suggested we hold our course and they would pass on our starboard. Whew!
Another nighttime ship story was about seeing a light pattern in the distance that we didn’t recognize until it got closer and the number of lights kept increasing and increasing until it looked like a floating city. Can you guess what it was? A cruise ship!
Besides keeping an eye out for ships, we were both treated to some entertaining wildlife during our watch. In the early morning, while Tony was on watch, he said we went through a big field of man-of-war’s. Then when I was on watch, I kept seeing flying fish. None of them landed on deck during this passage though.
Land Ho!
Eventually, we saw Bimini in the distance. “Land ho!” Time to put up our Q flag!
We saw Bimini yet it took quite a while for us to actually reach Bimini due to constantly adjusting our course for one freighter after another.
When we approached Bimini, we noticed another sailboat a little bit in front of us heading there also. How nice! We can just follow them in the channel through the shoals. Or not! When we saw them run aground, we realized it wasn’t such a great idea.
So we led the way towards the South Bimini shoreline. We took a quick starboard turn into Bimini Sands Marina, chose an empty dock space, and tied up. Bimini Sands had an advertised special weekly rate because they are doing some construction, remodeling, and improvements.
We arrived at Bimini around 2:00 pm Monday, Feb 28th, 2022; a 24-hour passage.
Bahamas Check-In
To check into the Bahamas, Tony took all our documents to the marina’s office and they arranged a taxi to the airport. All went smoothly at Customs and Immigration! When Tony got back, down came the Q flag, and up went the Bahamas flag.
Checking in doesn’t always go so easily for cruisers. On our first walk around the resort, there was a couple sitting at a picnic table outside the marina office struggling to figure out the online forms to check into the Bahamas. I sat down and helped them with a few tips to get them started. They had not realized at the South Bimini airport they only accept the online method to check-in. After our walkabout, they were still sitting in the hot sun trying to obtain and upload documents and getting more frustrated and stressed as time went on. I suggested maybe they could take the ferry to North Bimini to check-in. The next day that is exactly what they did. When they returned, we hardly recognized them. They appeared so relaxed and happy!
Bimini Sands Marina
During our first day in Bimini, we walked the beach, relaxed at the pool, and met other boaters. Lots of cruisers were arriving during this brief weather window. Like us, many boaters were planning at least a week’s stay here to wait out the coming storm before moving on. Although the resort upgrades are still in process, there is a gorgeous infinity pool to enjoy. Sunset social visits by the pool became part of our daily routine in the coming days. Dear friendships were formed while we all were “in the same boat” of waiting for the weather to improve before moving on to other islands. Those friendships were a special silver lining to the not-so-great weather during our first couple weeks in the Bahamas. You can’t control the weather, but you can control your attitude.
Another positive of staying put until the weather clears as it gave us time to get to explore Bimini and learn about its’ history and culture. For example, check out this video “Mighty Waters” about Ansil Saunders, a local boat builder and bone fishing guide, who took Martin Luther king out for a quiet place to write. Interesting history! In the coming weeks, we’ll get to know Bimini fairly well.
We made it to the Bahamas!
